In September, an origin trip took us to Ecuador and Peru – a journey that once again reminded us that there is no single right way to produce great coffee. The conditions, processes and backgrounds of the two farms we visited could hardly be more different. And yet, both places produce coffees that excite us – and you – year after year.
Ecuador – precision in the Andes
Our trip started in Cuenca, a charming mid-sized city at around 2,500 metres above sea level. Our first stop was CafExporto’s headquarters, also based in Cuenca. The company was founded by Juan Peña – a former rose producer and engineer with a strong focus on agronomy and technology – together with Philip Smith. Philip originally came to Ecuador from the US to enjoy what he once called an «adventurous retirement» after a career in venture capital. Today, he mainly supports the business side and has been involved with CafExporto for many years. Together, they have built a model shaped by engineering thinking and data-driven decision-making.
At the headquarters – production downstairs, offices and a bright cupping room upstairs – knowledge plays a central role. All employees regularly attend cupping courses, including those working in accounting or on the farm. This creates a shared understanding of quality and a team that knows why details matter. During our visit, we cupped together with a group from Singapore and Malaysia – a great exchange on perception, SCA scores and personal preferences.
On the way to La Papaya
After about three hours on the road with Juan and Cristina Yerovi – Administrative Director and a key part of the company for more than eleven years – we arrived at Finca La Papaya. The evening ended with a very American dinner of peanut butter and jelly sandwiches and crisps. The next morning, Juan showed us the heart of his operation – one of the most technologically advanced coffee farms we have ever visited.
Walking through the fields and processing facilities with Juan, the concept of the farm quickly became clear: this is precision farming.
- Soil sensors measure nutrients and moisture levels in real time, allowing water and fertiliser to be applied exactly where and when needed. Around 35,000 plants are supplied via a modern drip irrigation system.
- Diseases such as fungal infections are detected and mapped before they spread – including an alert system integrated into the farm’s dashboard.
- A genetic bank hosts hundreds of varieties – Laurina, Sidra, Ethiope and many more. It is used to produce seeds, test nutrient profiles and directly apply findings to farm management. Some of these varieties are also shared with other producers, including the Lasso brothers from El Diviso in Colombia.
Without technology, this region would hardly be suitable for high-quality coffee production. Coffee is grown here not because conditions are ideal, but because technology makes it possible. Rain only falls for a few months each year, many high-quality varieties are highly sensitive to disease, and without irrigation and precise nutrient control, yields would be minimal. Still, the quality speaks for itself. And much of the technology tested here will likely become standard for many farms in the future.
Cuenca and surroundings
We spent our final days in the region with Philip – hiking the high plateau near Tres Cruces, visiting a well-known fish restaurant in the mountains, and enjoying the relaxed atmosphere of Cuenca. For a city of this size, but not surprising for a coffee-growing region, Cuenca offers an impressive number of excellent specialty cafés, serving Ecuadorian coffees roasted by motivated baristas and roasters. Ecuador surprised us: technical, ambitious and welcoming.
Peru – coffee as a family business
From Ecuador, we continued to Chiclayo in northern Peru – a lively, slightly chaotic and noticeably hotter city, and a good starting point for travelling further inland. From there, we took a bus along winding mountain roads to Jaén. Unlike in Cuenca, we were very clearly the only gringos around.
At Origin Coffee Lab
In Jaén, we visited Origin Coffee Lab (OCL), a long-standing and trusted partner when sourcing coffee from Peru. The team roasts hundreds of samples every day, analyses them, sorts them by quality and works closely with producers across three regions. Pepe José Rivera showed us around the lab and warehouses, giving us a clear insight into how OCL operates.
What stood out most was their clear mission:
- Paying quality premiums well above local market prices, allowing producers to make a living from quality coffee.
- Teaching economic skills and agricultural best practices to help farms become profitable and stable.
- Strong transparency, offering buyers detailed price breakdowns across the entire value chain.
- Regular investments in infrastructure, such as new warehouses, sorting facilities and modern equipment.
During a shared cupping, we discussed current challenges. High market prices mean that some producers invest less in quality, as even average coffee currently sells well. For others, quality remains a conviction, regardless of the market situation.
Visiting La Confianza
The next morning, we set off at five a.m. towards Alto Pirias, together with staff from Origin Coffee Lab. At Don Angel’s farm, we were welcomed with a hearty breakfast of rice, meat and yuca. From there, we walked through the small and very simple village straight to the fields, accompanied by Don Angel, his son Damian and a large group of relatives – we quickly gave up trying to understand everyone’s exact family connection.
Coffee is very much a family affair here. All eight of Don Angel’s now adult children are involved in one way or another. Damian showed us his fermentation tanks – one of them holding a Geisha fermenting for 70 hours – as well as the drying rooms. After the farm tour, we sat together in front of the house to talk business. Damian is ambitious: he wants to experiment, improve quality and market his coffees better. The OCL team asked questions, gave feedback and openly discussed possible improvements.
Work at La Confianza feels shaped by experience and family-driven – a strong contrast to the data-heavy precision of La Papaya in Ecuador. And that contrast is exactly what makes it so interesting. Two worlds, two approaches, both driven by the same motivation: better quality, year after year.
Two farms, two philosophies
This trip reminded us that there is no single right way to produce coffee. At La Papaya in Ecuador, quality is built through technology, data and precision. At La Confianza in Peru, it grows from community, experience and craftsmanship.
Café tips in Peru
- Florencia & Fortunata (Cusco)
- Buscano Nombre Specialty Coffee (Cusco)
- Three Monkeys (Cusco)
- Milimétrica Coffee (Lima)
- Caleta Dolsa Coffee (Lima)
- Mérito (Lima)
- Punto Café (Lima)
- Oso Café (Arequipa)
- Latente Specialty Coffee (Ollantaytambo)
Café tips in Cuenca
- C41 Coffee Lab
- Slow Brew Coffee Shop
- Sinfonía Tostaduría y Cafetería
- Nana Coffee